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Fax your order and
save an additional 5% off your order! HAVE IT YOUR WAY Dock Modules is proud to introduce our new and expanded 2007 catalog. Responding to customer requests, we now offer several kits for the do-it-yourselfer as well as expanded design services. Whether you’re looking for a complete installation, a custom dock, a kit, or just parts, we are likely to have the parts you need in stock and we’re here to help.
THE MODULE CONCEPT & BASIC INFORMATION The concept of dock modules evolved over the years as a method of building docks that require minimal manpower to construct and handle. Module designs may cost a little more but are usually worth considering. On the other hand, if you have enough manpower and equipment to maneuver it, a one piece dock may be the best choice for you. These drawings illustrate the details of building either one.
The size of your dock is more a matter of usage than the size of your boat. If you simply need a dock for storing your boat, the dock can be quite a bit shorter than your boat. For instance, a 12’ long dock is long enough for a 18’ boat. A floating dock only 4’ wide will not be stable - you will have a “rolling log” unless you find a way to stabilize it (which spud pipes alone will not do). A 4’ wide finger off a main dock is okay since it is normally hooked to the main dock for stabilization. An independent floating dock should be at least 6’ wide and 8’ long. If seniors are using it, 8’ x 10’ minimum is recommended. The four most common methods of anchoring your floating dock in place are: A. Pipe holders bolted to the dock running up and down on spud pipes driven into the bottom. B. Cables attached to the dock corners and running to shore. C. “Deadmen”, e.g. concrete buckets (or other weights), sunken in the water and cabled to the dock. D. Stiff arm assemblies where pipes pivot on shore and at the dock
1. The water is over 6’ deep in the area of the dock and the support pipes would sway. 2. The water level varies over a foot and a fixed pier would often be under water or too far above the water, i.e., the “freeboard” is too great. 3. Wave action is heavy and a fixed pier would be periodically swamped. 4. Dock must be removed in the winter or is also used as a swim platform.
A walkway to your floating dock can be designed as fixed, semi-floating or floating. The fixed walkway is bolted to bracket/mudpipe assemblies (minimum water level variation). A semi-floating walkway pivots on shore and at the floating dock (see page 7). It is used when there is significant water level change or a pond is still filling. It is called semi-floating because it has one or two floats mounted only on the lake end. A full floating walkway is used on very deep lakes with a sharp dropoff at the shoreline. A full floater is commonly winched in and out as required as the water level changes. If you are a first
time dock builder, you may want to consider purchasing our
Dock Primer booklet. In it you
will find the answers to most of your questions about recreational docks.
The price is $15.00. BUILDING YOUR OWN DOCK—KITS OR CUSTOM You can build your own dock using parts in this catalog and be confident that you’ve built it just like the professionals. Since we offer design services as well as material, you can save considerable dollars by supplying your own wood and labor. Your cost is typically about half if you build and install it yourself. Since most of our customers “know which end of the hammer to hold”, questions most often revolve mainly around the best design and the best (and easiest) way to install the dock. Complete drawings, bills of materials and installation instructions are supplied with your order. By the way, most docks are installed when the water is “up”, i.e., the lake is in pool. Frames are usually 2x8 treated wood with galvanized steel bracketing added for strength and long term durability. How much steel bracketing should be included in the design depends on the type of service the dock will see. Although there are several dock designs and kits shown in our catalog, we actually spend a great deal of time designing kits for customers’ custom dock sizes and configurations. Our general lexicon includes:
DUTY CONDITIONS TYPICALLY INCLUDED IN DESIGN Light Duty Fixed piers in relatively shallow water Includes inside corners and Few people using the dock minimal joist angles Medium Duty Larger fixed piers, floating docks in Includes inside corners and relatively calm water, fixed piers joist angles in most joints in deeper water. Heavy Duty Fixed piers in rough water, floating Includes inside corners and docks in heavier wake areas, heavy joist angles at all joints usage. In recent years, when installing fixed piers, most customers seem to prefer mounting the support pipes underneath the dock for appearance purposes. The usual procedure requires starting with pipe needs 4-6’ longer than the water depth and eventually cutting the pipes prior to decking installation. If you are still unsure of whether you prefer a fixed or floating dock, you can reread the bottom of the previous page or call us for a recommendation. Generally, if your fixed pier is in more than 6’ of water, you will want to consider additional diagonal bracing. No matter which design you choose, you will want to consider a maintenance free dock. Although the initial cost is higher than wood decking, the appearance, longevity and safety are well worth the additional cost. Trim material can be used around the periphery so that no wood is even visible.
CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD TO 2007 DOCK MODULES BROCHURE CLICK HERE TO HAVE A 2007 DOCK MODULES BROCHURE MAILED
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